The starboard keel was secure with no movement evident when force applied.  The port keel did show some slight movement near the forward end.  Given the evidence of recent work on the studs inside the hull and absence of rust staining at the joint, it is likely that the keel has settled and requires no more than re-tightening of the keel bolts.  
Routine – Although there was no evidence of blistering it is important to remember that all GRP hulls of this age will produce osmotic reaction at some stage.  Recommended action is more in the way of cosmetic and preventive.  When the vessel is next hauled for antifoul, the top coating of the previous treatment should be sanded to produce a ‘key’.  A fresh epoxy treatment, if you wish, followed by several coats of ‘International Primicon’ before application of antifoul would slow the penetration of moisture and delay the appearance of blistering.  Although the need for serious treatment is years in the future, a plan for DIY treatment, when it becomes necessary can be provided and would not be difficult, or particularly expensive, to implement.  Full professional treatment by Dale Sailing using the HotVac system would likely cost around £4000 but, having seen the process, is the only treatment that impresses me.  If professional treatment is considered you should of course obtain several quotations before entering into a contract.  Carefully consider such things as guarantee period, experience, proposed processes and recommendations of previous customers.

Internal
The internal surface of the hull is well resin coated showing good quality production.  It has also, for the most part, been painted out and is clean, showing no evidence of damage repair.  Full or partial bulkheads are at chain locker, heads, forward end of the main cabin, main cabin seating, galley, cockpit and stern locker.  Together with the form strength of the central bilge moulding and quarter berth supports, this produces a stiff hull. There is water / oil standing in the shallow bilge of the main cabin, and a couple of inches in the engine bay bilge.
Routine – Drain and dry the bilge.  See also advice on bilge pumps.  

Seacocks, fitted by Westerly were of marine grade bronze, but are a mix of gate and cone valve type.  I am not a fan of gate valves as it is hard to tell if they are open or closed, they tend to seize and, if replaced by the cheaper, but similar looking, domestic variety, can fail without warning.  The wheels for turning the valves generally rust away before the condition of the valve itself becomes serious.
The engine coolant valves (in engine bay, starboard side of engine), are corroded gate valves, bronze but stiff (one seized completely) with corrosion on the wheels and generally in need of removal, close and detailed examination, and perhaps replacement with ‘ball’ or ‘cone’ valves.  Others located at the stern and under the galley sink are stiff and need servicing.  The bronze cone valves for the ‘heads’, located under the cabin sole, are serviceable, one operating freely, the other just a little stiff.  All would benefit from a service and ‘double clipping’.  There are no visible leaks.

Bilge pumps consist of one hand pump located in the aft cockpit locker, piped from the deeper bilge under the engine.  There is no electric pump, automatic, or otherwise, and no bilge alarm.   Water should be introduced and the bilge pump tested before the vessel is returned to service.
Routine – Fit an automatic bilge pump, with automatic float switch, connected by fused wire electrical feed through a dedicated three way switch (on/off/automatic) direct to the live side of the battery isolator switch.  An audible alarm indicator should also be considered.  Service the manual pump.

A sacrificial anode located port side aft of the engine is connected by rather thin wire.  It should be heavy cable and care must be taken to ensure good electrical conductivity between the anode and the fittings it is intended to protect.  (As stated elsewhere this was remarkably good, given the corroded contact.)

The twin cast iron keels were mounted by Westerly using stainless steel studding, the nuts (on this year of boat, mostly B.S.W. thread) being ‘glassed’ over inside the main cabin under seat lockers, to prevent loosening.  This is a known area of weakness.  However, the studs and nuts visible inside the boat are dry and in good order showing, in some cases, evidence of relatively recent re-seating or replacement.  Water is prevented from entering the studding through the hull / keel join by sealant, and any that passes the sealant is prevented from rising to the nut by a twisted cotton wadding gasket.  There were indications of past leakage but no visible signs of current dampness.

External
After around 32 years of use it is no surprise to find the odd chip or scrape, but this hull is impressively free from damage.  A dark blue hull will always show up berthing errors but there are no visible blemishes.  The original name lettering is showing through the paint finish